Liquor

 

            The term “liquor” generally refers to a pure, distilled spirit, usually at least 80 proof (40% alcohol). The modern bartender typically encounters 6 types of liquor on a daily basis:

  1. Whiskey (including Scotch, bourbon, Irish, and Canadian/rye)
  2. Gin
  3. Vodka
  4. Rum
  5. Tequila
  6. Brandy (including standard brandies, Cognacs, and Armagnacs)

“Distilling” is the act of converting an alcoholic liquid to a vapor form, then

condensing it back into (a much stronger) liquid form. Generally, the base ingredient consists of a grain mash or fruit to which yeast is added. This causes a process called fermentation. In fermentation, the yeast converts the sugars in the mash to alcohol. After fermentation, the liquid portion of the mash is generally separated from the solids. This liquid is then heated; because of the different boiling points of water and alcohol (212F [100C] and 173F [78.5C], respectively), the alcohol vapors that arise can be trapped and then re-condensed to create a liquid with comparatively high alcohol content.

            In the bar, the various brands are generally divided by quality (hence price) into the following categories: well (cheap), call (better), premium (for the discerning palate), and super premium (Dad’s buying). The last category is sometimes divided into more categories, but these simply serve to create a more complex price structure for a high quality spirit.

 

Whisk(e)y

 

-traditionally, two basic categories “blended and straight”

-blended whiskey- mixtures of several different types of whiskey, possibly even different distillers

-straight whiskey- unmixed or mixed only with whiskey from the same period and distiller

-generally comes from fermented cereal grains, the specific type gives rise to the type of whiskey

Scotch: primarily from barley, which is fermented and heated over a peat fire (smoky flavor)

Irish: much like Scotch, except that the barley is not heated over a peat fire

            -also tends to be distilled more than once (typically three times)

Bourbon: predominant ingredient is corn (at least 51%)

            -also employs a sour mash technique, in which a portion of the mash from the previous

batch (this portion is called the “backset’) is included with the new mash

            -first produced in Bourbon County, Kentucky, hence the name

-can be further divided into “Tennessee whiskey”, which is bourbon that is filtered through charcoal after aging

Canadian/rye: as you can guess, the mash ingredients are at least 51% rye

            -other types of whiskey are produced in Canada; the term “Canadian whiskey” is

generally used to mean a rye whiskey, though this term is becoming somewhat arcane

Others: many other whiskeys are produced which do not fall into the above categories; these fall

under the generic heading of “whiskey”

 

 

 

                                    Scotch                                      Bourbon                       Whiskey

Well:                            Lauders                                    Old Crow                     Heaven Hill

Call:                             Cutty Sark                                Jim Beam                     Seagram’s 7

Premium:                      Johnnie Walker Black               Jack Daniel’s                Crown Royal

Super Premium:            McCallan, JW Blue                  Gentleman Jack            Black Velvet

 

Notable uses: whiskey is the primary ingredient in the Manhattan and the Old Fashioned, while Scotch is the primary in the Rob Roy

Other popular drinks: whiskey is not widely mixed with other liquors, though it is commonly used in highballs and shots. A favorite shot is the Three Wise Men, or its younger brother, the Four Horsemen. Scotch is used in the Godfather and the Rusty Nail.

                                                                           

Gin

 

History:

-invention attributed to Franciscus de la Boe, a Dutch professor of medicine, who intended it for medicinal purposes

-the word comes from the French name for the juniper berry, “genièvre”

-altered by the Dutch to “genever”

-later shortened by the English (because they couldn’t pronounce it) to “gin”

Production:

  1. barley malt is fermented to make beer
  2. the beer is distilled, producing a spirit called “malt wine”
  3. this product is distilled again, either with flavoring agents (Dutch gin) or alone, with flavoring agents added prior to another distillation (dry gin)

-the chief flavoring agent in gin is the juniper berry

-other flavoring agents include botanicals, such as orris, angelica, lemon and orange peels, various barks, and seeds like coriander, fennel, and anise

-the Dutch type is fairly difficult to find in this country and doesn’t mix well

-the dry type is the standard variety in this country and that with which you are no doubt the more familiar

 

well: Crystal Palace, Five O’Clock, Heaven Hill

calls: Beefeater, Boodles, Gordon’s

premium: Tanqueray, Bombay

super premium: Bombay Sapphire

 

Notable uses: Gin was the original liquor for the martini, though vodka has become the other standard base. Also used in the Gibson and the gimlet

Other popular drinks: gin and tonic, Singapore Sling, Tom Collins

 

 

Vodka

 

-defined by law in the U.S. as “neutral spirits so distilled or so treated after distillation…as to be without distinctive character, aroma, taste, or color”

-vodka is a neutral spirit which can technically come from any agricultural product, though it generally comes from grains or potatoes

-generally two methods are employed to ensure purity: distillation and filtration 

-distillation: the finer vodkas are generally distilled several times, usually from 3 to 6

-filtration: typically charcoal filtering is used

-while Russia and Poland are generally considered the “home” of vodka, the U.S. produces more vodka than any other country in the world

-also contrary to popular belief, very few vodkas today are produced from potatoes-unlike most other liquors, small amounts of lightly aromatic substances are permitted as flavoring additives in vodka

-the traditional flavors of lemon and pepper have recently been joined by a plethora of other flavors, including vanilla, strawberry, orange, cinnamon, etc.

-many people agree that vodka is the spirit least likely to cause a hangover

-helpful hint for faking it: if the name includes “Moscow”, “Russia”, or something to that effect, or something about a “potato”, it probably has vodka in it

 

Well: Five O’Clock, Heaven Hill

Call: Smirnoff

Premium: Stolichnaya, Absolut (sadly, premium in price, not taste)

Super Premium: Chopin, Belvedere, Grey Goose

 

Notable uses: like gin, vodka can be the key ingredient in the martini, Gibson, and gimlet

Other popular drinks: because of the neutral (unflavored) nature of vodka, it is arguably the best mixer, and the list of drinks which include it is nearly endless. Some of the classics include the Screwdriver, Baybreeze, Seabreeze, Black Russian, and Moscow Mule.

 

Rum

 

-made from sugarcane products

-ranges from colorless and light-bodied to dark brown and heavy

-rum is distilled from either molasses or sugar cane juice

-rum must be aged for several months or even years, so that the acids, esters, and alcohol bind together in a way that will be pleasant tasting

-for the most part, rum is divided into three categories:

  1. Puerto Rican- light-bodied rums, typically light in color (usually aged 1 to 4 years)
  2. Jamaican- heavier bodied, pungent rums with more pronounced flavor (usually blended and aged from 5 to 7 years)
  3. Demerara (Navy rum)- vary dark, aromatic rums from the West Indies, often bottled at very high proofs (overproof rums)

-by far the sweetest of the liquors, rum is the key ingredient in “tropical” drinks and is the most appropriate liquor to be used with heavier, sweeter juices

-typically, when rum is the dominant flavor of the cocktail (Hurricane, Collins), Jamaican rum will be used; when the mixer dominates (Pina Colada, Strawberry Daiquiri), Puerto Rican rum is the right choice

-unlike most of the other liquor families, rum has not seen the connoisseur-grade labels develop to a great extent. While a number of finer labels do exist with a small but devoted core of supporters, the standard “macro-brewed” rums will serve the average bartender quite well

 

Well: Heaven Hill

Call: Bacardi Silver (Bacardi Light in restaurant lingo), Captain Morgan

Premium: Mt. Gay, Bacardi Gold Reserve Anejo

 

Notable uses: Anything with an umbrella or aptly described as “Froo-Froo”

Popular drinks: Daiquiri, Hurricane, Rum Runner, Cuba Libre.

 

Tequila

 

-comes from the agave cactus

-named after the town of Tequila in the Mexican state of Jalisco

-only the agave spirit produced in Jalisco can legally bear the name “tequila”

Production:

  1. Fresh agave juice is mixed with fermented agave juice, called pulque
  2. After a rapid fermentation, the brew is double distilled
  3. The tequila is aged for up to four years

-a yellow or gold color results when tequila is aged in oak barrels; otherwise, it is naturally clear

-tequila really became big in the U.S. in the late 1970’s thanks to the popularity of the Margarita

-in recent years, tequila prices have risen dramatically because demand has seriously outpaced supply

            -agave plants require at least 10 years to mature

-in the last five years, the industry has witnessed a sharp rise in tequila’s popularity, thanks especially to designer/connoisseur tequilas

            -a number of producers have hired armed guards to guard their agave crops

-another product, called mescal, is basically tequila that is produced outside of Jalisco; it is usually only distilled once and has a stronger flavor, but it is virtually indistinguishable from tequila to the uninitiated drinker

-for you shot fans out there who get confused easily, it’s: 1. salt 2. tequila 3. lemon

 

Well: El Tesoro, Conquistador

Call: Jose Cuervo Gold

Premium: Jose Cuervo 1800, Sauza Commemorativo

Super Premium: Jose Cuervo Riserva de la Familia, Sauza Tres Generacion

 

Notable use: Margarita and its offspring

Other popular drinks: Sunrise, Tequini, Brave Bull.

 

 

Brandy

 

-brandy is among the oldest of the liquors, dating back to the Middle Ages

-the term “brandy”, in general usage, refers to the spirit that results from the distillation of wine

-after distillation, brandy is clear; the rich color results from aging in oak barrels

-from the Dutch word brandewijn, meaning “burnt wine”

-perhaps the most famous type of brandy is Cognac, which comes from a particular region in France

-much like the famous “every square is a rectangle, but not every rectangle is a square” conundrum, all Cognac is brandy, but not all brandy is Cognac

-Armagnac, another type of brandy produced in a different region of France, has a small but dedicated following

-because brandy is produced from a fruit product, it is naturally sweet, and thus lends itself well to drinks involving sweeter mixers

-non-Cognac brandies above the “Call” level are difficult to find, as most people who enjoy brandy enough to want the premium level are quite willing to pay for good Cognac

-it is important to note that brandy can also be produced with various fruit flavors from the fermented mash of those fruits, but these are generally considered liqueurs more than “real” brandy (e.g. cherry brandy, blackberry brandy)

 

Well: Hartley

Call: Christian Brothers

Premium: Remy Martin V.S., Courvoisier V.S., Martell V.S., Hennessy V.S.

Super Premium: Remy Martin V.S.O.P., Courvoisier V.S.O.P., Martell V.S.O.P., Hennessy V.S.O.P.

 

Notable use: The French brandies are typically ordered alone, in a glass called a “snifter”, as an after-dinner drink. Brandy can also be used as a sweeter base for a Manhattan.

Other popular drinks: Sidecar, Brandy Alexander, Stinger.